Written by Saulė Petreikytė
When shopping for jewelry, particularly online, it can be tricky to know what exactly will arrive at your doorstep. How do you know if that gold ring with stone, or a pair of hoop earrings in silver are actually authentic, and you are not getting scammed into paying your well earned money for something that was made quicker than I can make a cup of tea? Lo and behold, that is where hallmarking, stamping, and certificates come in hand. It is a top-secret language between jewelers tha- I’m joking, it is a universal marking that explains what your cuff bracelet or any other jewelry piece is actually made off. In this guide, I’ll break down what those tiny numbers you’ve seen on your gold ring mean, or if you haven’t seen them, how to spot them, and in addition, what type of certification you should look for when investing in premium quality jewelry that will stay with you for decades. From silver to gold plated, to solid gold, here is your map, so you don’t get lost in this top-secret language ;)
What does “Hallmarking” mean?
A hallmark is a small stamp or engraving on a piece of jewelry that verifies its metal contents and, of course, quality. Hallmarks are applied by official assay offices or manufacturers, and they’re your best clue that what you’re buying is what it claims to be. So, if you see some numbers on the inside of your gold ring, you are already on a good track.
How to locate Hallmarks?
I’m glad you asked. Hallmarks are tiny and tend to be discreet, usually placed in low-visibility areas. For instance:
- The inside of rings
- Back of earrings
- On the clasps of a chain bracelet or pendant necklace
- The inner side of a cuff bracelet
If you are having a hard time seeing what the number is, try using a magnifying glass or your phone camera to zoom in. If you’re shopping in person, don’t hesitate to ask the jeweler where and what the mark is.
Do Hallmarks matter?
Of course they do! They matter for both consumers and sellers. For consumers, it provides reassurance that the piece is authentic, informs about its value, gives insights into its longevity. Overall, one can sleep sound after seeing those tiny numbers. For sellers, it is almost as a sign of trust. Working with precious metals like gold and silver, those hallmarks can prevent scams or counterfeit, thus protecting both sides.
Common Hallmarks and their meanings
Yeah, yeah, I’m getting to the point. Let’s look at common marks you’ll find on gold and silver rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces:
Gold Jewelry
- 24K: 99.9% pure gold. 24k gold is rarely used in everyday jewelry as it is too soft, thus it would bend and scratch much quicker.
- 18K: 75% gold - very common, richer yellow color, softer, more premium, less allergizing.
- 14K: 58.3% gold – very common as well (if you're interested in differences between 14k and 18k, read this) stronger and cheaper than 18k jewelry; however, still provides a good balance of purity and quality.
- 10K: 41.7% gold - most durable for constant, everyday wear but has the least rich appearance compare to 14k and 18k.
- 750: Indicates 18K gold, as in 750/1000 parts pure gold.
- 585: indicates 14K gold, as in 585/1000 parts pure gold.
- 375: 9K gold.
Silver Jewelry
- 925: Sterling silver. 92.5% pure silver, which is the standard for quality silver jewelry.
- 950: 95% purity, thus higher than 925. This one is commonly used in some designer pieces.
- 800: 80% purity, common amongst older or vintage pieces, more likely to tarnish.
Gold Vermeil
- Look for 925 + Vermeil or Sterling, because that indicates that the base is sterling silver and the top layer is thick gold, at least 2.5 microns of 10K or higher gold.
- If you only see GP (gold-plated), be cautious, because this is a much thinner layer of gold, not regulated, and wears off quickly.
Platinum and Other Metals
- 950 or PT or PLAT: Platinum, meaning it is 95% pure. It is extremely durable, resistant to tarnishing, thus tends to be more expensive.
- Palladium: may be stamped as PD or Pall, lighter than platinum, but shares similar qualities. Relatively eco-friendly.
What else can be done to give me a peace of mind about the jewelry?
Well I’m glad you asked. Certifications can ease your mind when wondering if your gold hoops or sterling silver necklace is made ethically and is bona fide. Here are some of your options:
- Responsible Jewellery Council: they promote responsible practices and ethical standards within the jewellery and watch industry, thus they validate the entire supply chain, from mining to the moment you put that jewelry on.
- Fairmined & Fairtrade Gold: they ensure that gold is mined responsibly, ethically, without violating laws, or using toxic chemicals.
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Gemological Institute of America: they are the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, coloured stones, and pearls. More than 80 years ago the GIA created the International Diamond Grading System, which is still used to this day to evaluate diamond quality.
What if there is no hallmark?
Red flag, bigger than your ex boyfriend. There could be instances where some handmade or vintage pieces might not be stamped or have worn off through decades of wear and tear. However, not even a tiny trace of a hallmark is a bright, red flag. Be cautious if a seller is insistent that those hoops are solid gold or that necklace is sterling silver when you can’t locate a visible hallmark or an accompanying certificate. Especially if you’re buying premium items like men’s chain bracelets or gemstone necklaces, ask for documentation or test results.
Tips for buying jewelry online
Online shopping for jewelry can be tricky even if you’ve already figured out the sizes and the style you want, you still need to ensure you get what you’ve paid for.
- Check product descriptions to see if hallmarks and/or metal contents are mentioned.
- Request a close up photo to determine if the hallmark is there.
- Talk to customer service to calm down any uncertainties.
- Read all the information provided for the jewelry, so that you wouldn’t buy jewelry described as “gold-tone” or “silver-colored” when expecting solid gold or sterling silver.
Time for some Q&A!
Q: My jewelry has no hallmark. How can I test the jewelry to figure out its metal contents?
A: Use acid test kits for basic metal testing or visit a certified jeweler for professional testing like XRF scans.
Q: Is it okay to buy unmarked jewelry if I trust the seller? He pinky promised that those hoops are gold!
A: Depends, usually all is alright with artisan pieces, but for highly valuable items, ask for more verification than a pinky promise.
Q: Can jewelry be real gold or real silver, but not stamped?
A: Yep, that tends to happen with handmade, vintage pieces or previously mentioned artisan ones. However, reputable sellers don’t play with fire and document their metals to the standards.
Q: I see a hallmark on my jewelry, does that guarantee high quality craftsmanship?
A: Unfortunately, not always. Hallmark confirms metal content, but not how carefully the jewelry piece was made.
Q: What is the difference between hallmark and a maker’s mark?
A: As we learned, hallmark verifies metal purity, but a maker’s mark identifies the brand. Both tend to appear together. For instance, on BOUND gold ring you will see BOUND 925.
Final remarks: know what you are wearing
Whether you are shopping for small sterling silver hoop earrings, a gemstone necklace, or a gold vermeil pendant to mark any milestone, locating and understanding hallmarks is essential, so your expectations and reality aligns. These tiny stamps might seem insignificant at first, but they make a huge difference between fine, premium, timeless jewelry and fast-fashion, cheap made, trendy pieces that can hardly be called jewelry. When you find yourself worried about the authenticity of the jewelry you’re about to purchase, opt for reputable sellers, certifications rather than TikTok recommendations. Invest in quality, value, and that will turn into individual meaningful connections and recurring warm feelings.
Explore our collection of minimalist rings and more, all of which are responsibly, sustainably made – and we have a hallmark to prove! The stamp tells more than just the value, it tells a story, and make sure it is a story worth carrying.
